rabbit hay 101
This article expands on our original thoughts on rabbit hay from 2022.
Pellets are like potato chips to some rabbits. If your rabbit is eating a variety of leafy greens and quality hay, there may be no need for pellets at all - though that depends on your rabbit's individual needs and your exotic vet's recommendation.
At BCB, Marshmallow is not on pellets. Chocolatte is. Two rabbits, same household, different dietary needs. That is what rabbit nutrition actually looks like in practice.
What is never variable: hay. Hay is not optional. It is not a side dish, and it is not something to ration because you are worried about waste. It is the foundation of everything - your rabbit's dental health, their digestive health, even their litterbox habits. The single most important thing about hay is not the brand, not the type, not the price.
It is the strand length.
Why Strand Length Is the Whole Point
Your rabbit's teeth grow continuously for their entire life. The only thing keeping those teeth at a healthy length is wear from chewing. And not all chewing is equal.
When a rabbit chews long-strand hay, they make a sustained lateral (side to side) grinding motion with their jaw. This grinding motion is what physically wears the cheek teeth down to the proper length and angle. It is passive dental care happening every time your rabbit eats.
Short, chopped, or processed hay does not require the same motion. If the strands are already broken down, the work is essentially done for them — the same way pre-chewed food would require no chewing effort from you. The teeth do not wear. They keep growing.
The result: malocclusion, overgrown tooth roots, sharp points and spurs that cut into the tongue and cheeks, and eventually abscesses that can extend into the jaw and skull. Dental disease is one of the most common reasons rabbits present to exotic vets - and a low forage diet is one of the most significant contributing factors.
This is why we point families toward feed stores and dedicated hay suppliers rather than pre-packaged pet store bags. The strands are longer. They do more of the job they are supposed to do.
The Litterbox Connection
Rabbits eat and poop at the same time. This is not a quirk - it is biology. Their digestive system is mechanical, not automatic like ours. Food goes in, the body processes it continuously, and the gut keeps moving. Eating stimulates elimination.
This is why placing hay in or directly adjacent to the litterbox is the single most effective litterbox training strategy available. The rabbit goes to eat, and they eliminate where they are. Hay placed in the litterbox ensures your rabbit is always eating and always eliminating in the right place. (Note: we are not a fan of hay bags and racks, but we understand that sometimes it is necessary to ensure that your rabbit’s have all the hay they need if you are away at work or school.)
If your rabbit is having litterbox issues, the first question we ask is: where is the hay?
Why Families Aren't Giving Enough Hay
The most common reason we hear: "we don't want to waste it."
We understand the impulse. Hay is bulky. It gets scattered. It ends up on the floor. It feels extravagant to pile it in and watch half of it get flicked around the enclosure.
But here is the math: a single exotic vet visit for dental disease can run several hundred to several thousand dollars. A month of quality hay runs a fraction of that. Rationing hay to save money is almost always trading a small, predictable cost for a much larger, unpredictable one.
Give them the hay.
Another reason rabbits aren't eating enough hay: they are too full of other things. Pellets are calorically dense and require minimal chewing - a rabbit who has eaten their pellet ration has no incentive to work through a pile of hay. If your rabbit is ignoring hay, the first adjustment is almost always reducing pellets and greens temporarily and letting hay be the primary food available. Most rabbits make the transition within a few days. (Note: please consult your exotic veterinarian before making any major changes to their diets.)
A Note on Hay Allergies
Hay allergies are one of the most common concerns rabbit parents bring up - and they are manageable for most people. Hay allergies are typically triggered by dust and pollen in the hay, not the hay itself. Choosing a low-dust or dust-extracted hay significantly reduces exposure. Timothy hay tends to be more allergenic than orchard grass or oat hay for some people - if you notice more symptoms with one type, try switching.
Practical steps that help:
Store hay in a sealed container and only open it away from your rabbit's living area
Wear a mask when handling and refilling hay
Wash hands after handling
Keep your rabbit's hay area in a well-ventilated space away from where you sleep
Use allergy medication as needed - and on a more proactive note, consider speaking with your doctor about allergy injections, which can significantly reduce sensitivity over time
Many rabbit parents with hay allergies live comfortably with their rabbits long-term. If symptoms are severe, speak with an allergist before adopting - not after.
Rabbit dander allergies are significantly rarer than hay allergies. If you are concerned, spend time around rabbits before committing. Visit a rescue or a rabbit boarding facility to assess your actual reaction before making a long-term decision.
How to Make Hay Interesting
Hay does not have to be boring! A few ways to make it more engaging:
Variety: rotate between timothy, orchard grass, and oat hay. Different textures, different smells, different tastes. Some rabbits have strong preferences; find out what yours actually likes rather than defaulting to whatever is on sale.
Forage Blends: mixing dried herbs, edible flowers, and botanicals into hay adds interest and encourages foraging behavior. This is essentially what we teach in our Forage Friday classes. A rabbit exploring through a pile of hay mixed with dried chamomile and rose petals is enriched and eating at the same time.
Hay Toys: stuffing hay into cardboard tubes, paper bags, or willow balls gives your rabbit something to destroy while they eat. Enrichment and dental care simultaneously.
What Type of Hay
For healthy adult rabbits: any grass hay your rabbit will actually eat consistently. Timothy, orchard grass, oat hay, meadow hay - all are appropriate. What matters far more than the type is the strand length and the quantity.
Baby rabbits (under 6 months): alfalfa hay is appropriate during this growth stage. It is higher in calcium and protein, which supports development. Around 6 months, begin transitioning gradually to grass hay as the primary staple. Alfalfa can remain as an occasional supplement but should not be the main hay for healthy adults - the high calcium content contributes to bladder sludge and urinary issues over time.
Where to Buy
Our preference is feed stores and local graineries for bulk purchase - the strands are longer and the price per pound is significantly lower than pre-packaged pet store hay. We also like Rabbit Hole Hay for families who prefer a subscription model.
We understand that buying hay by the bale is not realistic for everyone. We are in an urban environment - most of our clients are in Long Beach, Los Angeles, and Orange County, where storing a bale of hay is simply not an option. A large bag from a quality supplier is a completely reasonable alternative.
BCB is currently exploring a once-a-month curated hay service for families who want access to quality long-strand hay without the logistics of a bale purchase. If this is something you would be interested in, let us know - we are gauging interest before moving forward.
In SoCal, we have purchased from San Dimas Grain, Lomita Feed Store, Feed Barn (Costa Mesa) and Tony’s (NorCo).
A Quick Quality Check Regardless of Source
Green, not yellow or brown
Fresh and grassy smell, not musty
Long visible strands, minimal broken bits
Low dust - dusty hay in an enclosed space is a respiratory hazard
The Bottom Line
Unlimited hay. Long strands. Near the litterbox. Always available.
Everything else - the type, the brand, the mix - is secondary to those four things. Get those right and you have done the most important thing you can do for your rabbit's health today, and every day.
Sources
Martin LF et al. — Tooth Wear, Growth and Height in Rabbits Fed Pelleted or Extruded Diets With or Without Added Abrasives. Journal of Animal Physiology and Animal Nutrition, 2022. — dietary consistency and lateral chewing as primary driver of dental wear; pellets significantly less effective than hay for cheek teeth attrition
Meredith AL, Prebble JL, Shaw DJ — Impact of Diet on Incisor Growth and Attrition and the Development of Dental Disease in Pet Rabbits. Journal of Small Animal Practice, vol. 56, 2015. — low forage diet causes dysregulation in wear/growth interaction of rabbit dentition